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This page is a work in progress - keep checking on my progress until I complete it - of course this means I have to not only do all these maint procedures, but I also have to document and photograph it all too. Should be a piece of cake, no?
Starter Clutch Repair
Valve Adjust Procedure
Fanstat Switch Replacement
Carburetor Removal, Cleaning and Installation
Brake Overhaul
Starter Clutch Repair
Is your V4 having trouble starting?
If you can hear the starter spinning, but not
engaging or the engine cranking, you need to rebuild the starter clutch.
Start by removing the
rear brake pedal. The 10mm bolt at the rear of the pedal holds a bracket
attached to the rear brake switch.
Next, remove the right side footpeg. Two allen screws hold the footpeg on.
Remove the 8 mm bolts that hold the clutch sidecover on. Using a rubber mallet or a leather hammer,
gently loosen the clutch cover and remove it. Chances are, that clunk you heard
when you pulled the clutch cover off
is the starter idler gear. The axle pin for that gear runs between the clutch
sidecover and the engine case.
Locate the pin and idler gear and put them in the clutch cover.
I take the alternator cover off the other side of the engine too.
Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar, and a second 17mm socket on a ratchet,
the clutch starter nut usually
goes first.
Pull the starter clutch off and take it to the bench.
Remove the three 12 mm bolts holding the top cover on.
Inside you will see the rollers and the plungers. Using a stout pair of needle
nose pliers, lift the rollers out of the
starter clutch assembly.
The cups and springs will come out into the recess area. Pick them out with the
needle nose pliers.
Inspect the springs. Chances are, some or all of them will be shot. Install new
plungers and springs, then install the rollers.
Replace the clutch cover verifying the dowel pin is aligned with the dowel
pin hole in the cover.
The cover bolts get torqued to 19-22 ft-lbs, and a locking agent (Locktite blue)
is recommended.
Install the starter clutch on the crankshaft ensuring the alignment of the punch marks on the
starter cover and the crankshaft. The 17 mm bolt gets 58-72 ft.-lbs.
Return to the top of this page
Valve Adjust Procedure
Time for a valve adjust on your vintage V4? - relax, its's not very difficult. Coming soon- stay tunedReturn to the top of this page
Fanstat Switch Replacement
Follw this simple repair or upgrade to keep that V4 cool! First, drain the coolant from the cooling system by removing the 8 mm hex bolt from the lower frame leg, near the left footpeg (picture here) Open the radiator cap by removing the phillips head screw from the cap, and twisting the cap off. Drain coolant into a small bucket. Approx 3 cups of coolant will come out. Remove the side covers on a Magna. Remove plastic radiator sidecovers to expose the coolant hose from the left side frame to the radiator and the thermostat assembly on the right side. (picture here) Locate the wire connector to the fanstat switch (left side) and remove it. On the right side (Magna) locate the fan connector behind the frame cover plate.(picture) Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the radiator on. A magna has a bolt on each side (picture here) and a 10mm bolt at the top, under the steering head. (picture here) Remove the radiator and drain the remainder of the coolant.
Now is a great time to flush the radiator with clean water.
Remove the fanstat switch and replace. If you used an aftermarket fanstat switch such as the Wells SW504, you will need to make a connector to jump between the flatblade style connector on the bikes wiring harness and the bullet style connector on the fanstat. (pictures here)Return to the top of this page
Carburetor Removal, Cleaning and Installation This is a day-long job, so settle in and be prepared to spend a full day ensuring *everything* is as clean as you can possibly get it. There are many small orifices on these carbs, (not to mention 4 carbs) and being in a rush rewards you with the oppurtunity to do it again (and again...)
Let's start by tearing down the bike to get to the carbs. On all sabmags, the gas tank must be removed. Start by removing the seat and sidecovers. On V65 Sabres, find the fuel shutoff and turn off the fuel at the tank. Remove fuel lines and plug them. Remove the gas tank. Remove the air filter cover, air filter and the upper airbox assembly. It usually has five or six phillips head screws holding it to the lower air box. Remove the thermostat from the right side of the air box. Loosen the clamps on the carbs boots to the intakeReturn to the top of this page
Brake Overhaul Common braking problems can be easily corrected. All it takes is some attention to detail and an obsessive-compulsive attitude to make everything *clean*Return to the top of this page
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Sabre & Magna Owners-Texas (SMOT)
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